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I got my RS helmet a couple of months ago. It is goregous! They used gloss on mine. I did ask for it specifically in my order but was told that's what they were doing now anyway. I can post pics soon. I'll mark this thread to follow and post them over my Xmas work break.

I have an RS as well but am terrified to do any external changes to it. However, I love mics. Especially ones that flow well and positioned logically. I'll be watching to see how it goes for you. I had a great audio system in my Altmanns but the speakers were in the ears and mic inside the helmet behind the snout. I'd love to know how this works out for you here. Also, I always kept a second set of TD greebies and snout greeblies in my pouch. Velcro already stuck on the back side of the greeblie with the other velcro side pre cut shape ready to stick if needed. That way if any primary greeblie bumped and popped off at a troop, I had the emergency set to slap on real quick and I could pocket the primary one that came off and figure out what was wrong later. You can seamlessly continue on the troop...although remain frustrated under the bucket thinking how to fix the problem for next time. But I agree here, the good double sided tape would probably work well here and be easy.

Congrats Eric! I was watching your thread with interest as I'm updating pieces of my older Lancer with a couple of the same vendors. Great job with the adjustments. Well done!

Well done. Congrats!! Always a great feeling to complete a set. Looks fantastic!

Thanks! I really never thought much of it being a good idea as it was kind of last minute idea. Back in 2003, I had knocked a TD end cap off leaning on a wall at a troop. I had no idea. Another trooper saw it and got it for me. So I decided to make the back up leash to attach to each inside end caps. Hasn't been a problem since. If a cap does knock off it will be easier to feel and see to prevent loss. Hope it helps others that worry about it. Back to Mickeys thread. Mickey, I may have questions on the shoulder strap once I get to it and I like what you did here, but can't totally make out the layers. It's my number one issue for my armor at troops. I'll be back to ask later. Thanks again for this golden thread!

That's a good point on edge. It will be thicker to glue down. I'll try CA glue. Thanks for that tip. On my current set I actually took a thick fishing line through the tube and glued it with small bit of scrap ABS to the inside of each cap. That way if I bumped a cap off, it would dangle and prevent it from falling. Just as a back up safety "leash" if you will. I'll probably do that again. I plan to start working on the coil wrapped TD this weekend. It looks fun. I'll post up if I have any issues/success over the course the build.

Thank you both for the quick feedback. That info is so helpful! I do want to find that perfect gray beige look too, but I'll get what gray works best and is available. I do have an extra TD housing and TD end caps from an older MC armor set. I will use that as my test set for the coil. I'll have to experiment with the weight and keeping it snug. They did it on screen right? I used hair pins inside the housing back in the day and they worked like a champ. I'll see if the same concept can work here along with the proper looking clips . I know there is multiple ways to do the end caps. Any suggestions for securing those on the ends when dealing with the coiled TD? Oh, AradunFF, your Lancer pics look great! Well done!!

Great thread that I will follow as well. I'd love to see some interiors especially the way the ears were done inside. I need to correct and update mine.

Mickey, I like how you did your TD here. I plan to update my Lancer and I believe that is the first place I will start. For wrapping the wire around, did you thread through the inside hole of the tube first and wrap towards the edge? I can't tell which is the entrance and exit holes on the tube in the picture. Also any recommendations on spray paint brand to get the gray as close as we can to what was on screen? I've been able to pick up most or the materials Strider recommended except paint. (I plan to make my own clips as first attempt as I want the bars thin). Thanks for this great thread!

Hope to attend the next one if I can. Sounds really fun!

I think this is a brilliant idea. I'd love to attend if I could. I'll be working in the morning, but if I get back in time and can hop in I will. Thanks for considering doing these!

Best wishes Stefan! Congrats Melody!

Thank you for the pic and scenario Hawk! Every idea and example helps.

My chest armor cracked last year (in almost the exact same way the costuming book cracks look) so I got my new MC replacement chest piece and decided to Re-connect the chest and back. I didn't like my original method. I had extra,long webbing and secured in the back and then would pull it tight to the front and tuck it in attaching to velcro. This led to the strapping getting a little loose and I'd pull tight again on a troop. I believe this increased that pressure and made the chest kind of fold a little each time and then finally split at the top and bottom. I will say it took 8 years of troops...I saw this thread and was really interested to see what others do. I'm a visual person. Does anyone have any pics of their chest back connection method that they could share with me or others? Id be grateful for the examples. I just cant figure out a good way to keep it snug and not show any hidden elastic. I'm working on upgrading my old Lancer to meet the updated Lancer specs. Is there a known screen accurate method that was used? I.e. the front chest webbing connection is sewed loop and hidden elastic in back? Thanks for photo ideas! Justin

Congrats Dave!!!