Obey Wann

So cool to see your build progressing! Heh, you pulled me back to this forum... first time in a long time. Looking forward to seeing your build. I loved my MC kits and gear that I got. My Snow Scout was a lot of MC kits, plus some SC. Plus I had their TS and Imperial Navy helmet. All of it was top-notch.

As a point of reference, I have 19 3/4" calf muscles. I was unable to fit into the Jimmi calf, and was able to just fit into the 850 without shimming. Because the Jimmi is fiberglass, and had built in details preventing shimming, sadly, this made that kit a no-go for me. As a vendor, if you did offer different size parts (similar to OSCS tall and short clone armor) this would be extremely beneficial to the community. Some parts are relatively easy to shim (forearms and biceps), but the calf can get more difficult, due to the front shin guard armor. I receive questions just about every day about what size kit will fit whom. Especially by larger troopers. There is definitely a need for the option for bigger guys.

It should be straightforward. I also did a 3D printed one. I added wooden dowels inside the barrels to give it heft and add structural stability. Then I glued it with CA and accelerant. I was done in a night.

Welcome to another Colorado trooper! There are several armor choices that will work for you. On the helmet side, I highly recommend that you physically try on different helmets from multiple vendors and see what one works best for you. Check out our Meet and Greets in the MG. They are every month. Best way to meet people face to face and ask questions.

I think it is .5 cm. I eyeballed mine, and it worked.

Nice!!!

Thanks, how about chest size/weight? Us bigger guys are having problems finding the right parts without mixing and matching. That's why I mentioned Am 2.0 or the KB.

Here is a quick comparison of your rev 3 to the screen used Part A: Seems close, but I highly recommend taking this down flat and supplying a 3D printed/resin/rubber part for detail Part B: Seems close, but I highly recommend taking this down flat and supplying a 3D printed/resin/rubber part for detail. Your rev 2 is infinitely better than my rev 1. Part C: Needs total rework. I highly recommend taking this down flat and supplying a 3D printed/resin/rubber part for detail Part D: Your part is entirely too long. It needs to stop at the height of the Part B. This is just a quick look at it.

The number one question I get every day is: what size trooper will this fit? How does it compare to say AM2.0, or an Anovos or MC TK? I'm sure the quality will be top notch. Can't wait to see it all!

Live video - op testing and reviewing the new Montana Gold Sahara Beige paint

It was almost identical to Rustoleum Ivory Silk.

Thanks! This has been a labor of love, sweat, tears and no small amount of frustration on my wife's part. Tony has also been an invaluable resource. She spent a lot of time on the phone talking with him, discussing techniques, and lessons learned. I can't sew to save my life, so my bucket is off in respect to anyone who can.

My wife is now 90% complete. It still needs Velcro and grommets and she needs to add the webbing straps. I'd love feedback on this. This is for Scubacat. She starts on mine tomorrow. We are going for basic approval.

I just PDF'd your tutorial so I could print it and use it.

I posted this in the other paint thread, but tonight I picked up this Model Master paint. It has the yellow that other paints are missing. I'm going to test it on top of an Ivory Silk painted part.

I don't mind the gloss. That'll get knocked down with washes and a dull clear coat.

Work, understood. I was simply trying to find the right color. Do not read anything into my post that I did not say. This is one of the hardest colors to match, let alone name. Also, this was not directed at the CRL, as this is the section for paint color discussion. I'm simply trying to find the right color of paint. With luck, before I finish painting this weekend.

I stopped by Ace Hardware tonight, here is every color I could find that is remotely close. Note: few are called "tan."

Here lies the debate: Do you go for the screen-accurate color (with all of the color matching, lens filters and other digital effects added), or what it looks like in real life, under ideal lighting conditions? The reality is that we've never seen these kits under ideal lighting conditions (say a 5500K daylight rated studio bulb), so it is really tough to get it perfect, short of someone at LFL telling us exactly what they used as the base. I have a strong hunch that they did color correcting in the film, to increase saturation on colors, and make the blacks darker. In essence, we are totally back to the Han ESB Hoth coat debate. Is it brown or blue? There is "What it looks like on screen" and then there is "what it looks like in real life." The challenge here is that they might be two completely different colors, due to lens filters and post production enhancements. I'm going to take a piece of painted armor, and some screenshots to a local hobby store tomorrow. I'm hoping that maybe, just maybe, there is an accurate color in the hobby market. Because what we are getting in the hardware store department is close, but not perfect. And failing that, I'll use the exact paint everyone else in my garrison is using, so we all match for the premiere.

Thanks for posting this! I will definitely use this.

I have a SC and a CucBlack. The SC was too small for me, so I got the CB. It was a PITA to get, but has served me will. I am currently selling my snow scout to fund my shoretrooper, but it's going to another larger trooper. I'm not familiar with the ALT -- is it a good option for troopers with larger melons?

From the front:

Here is a photo album, it's public. It has my notes and references. I used this heavily: See how the back stops at the top of the greave, and the front goes to approximately the bottom of the stop strap: NOT rectangular:

OK, this seems to be confirming how we see things in the Mountain Garrison. I used CE mannequin pics, plus the action figure, and lots of CE mannequin pics. How I see it: Measure the rear of the kama to the top of your calf armor/greaves. Measure the front of the kama to the lower part of the upper calf strap height. On the back of the kama, go straight down from belt line, along the spine, to the bottom of the crotch. We are taking each half of the kama from the spine (center line) to the outer edge of the wearer's hips.

I wondered about that, also. Good find!