Chex Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 These are now in force as of 01/10/16. As previously mentioned, those who have started their application prior to this date will still have until 01/01/17 to complete their build on the old standards. Persons starting their applications, or submitting them after the new year will need to complete them on the standards below. Thanks. **************************************************************************** Posting this here for those who want to start a Lancer build from that start and don't have 501st access. The Pathfinder Lancer standards go above and beyond the basic standards to demonstrate the costumer's skill and pride in the art of costuming. Application into the Pathfinder Lancers is strictly voluntary and it is not a 501st Legion or Pathfinders membership requirement. Lancer qualification is not automatic and it can only be obtained through the proper application process. In order to have a scout trooper costume approved for Lancer membership, an applicant is required to meet the 501st Legion's basic costume standards for the costume and to be a registered Pathfinder on Bikerscout.net. One must apply to be included on the list. Lancer status will be granted to applicants whose costumes meet the standards listed below. All applicants are required to submit photos of each aspect of their armor displaying each of the required components so that they may be judged by the review committee made up of the DL, XO and Lancer Review Team. Lancers who later sell their armor or who otherwise no longer meet the basic 501st Legion requirements for membership (i.e., whose armor deteriorates in quality or those who go permanently inactive) will be acknowledged as a Retired Lancer. Anyone who buys the costume of a Lancer will not automatically earn Lancer status. Individuals who do so would have to apply for review as a new applicant would. Lancer Modifications to the BASIC Imperial Scout Trooper costume: I. HELMET 1. Modified Rubies helmets may be submitted, but will be subject to extreme scrutiny. 2. All other fan-made helmets made from ABS, fiberglass or rotocast resin are qualified on an individual basis. Elements that will be examined include, but are not limited to: - film-accurate or close approximation of the '3M' visor hinge bolts (visible bolt head diameter of 22mm) - film-accurate squared emblem located on the left faceplate "blinder" - film-accurate helmet snout/aerator detail, mounted onto a plate and painted medium grey (primer grey, Humbrol 64, or equivalent) . - film-accurate rear helmet "bar code" striping pattern -Chin cup is optional, as there is argument for and against. -No mesh in ears.Black material/ paint to be added inside to create depth. -Decals or painted areas must be close to screen used colors. - Helmet. No visible seams on the dome. - Optional but recommended. For the 'Back and Cap' style bucket constructions, the join around the top of the dome must be as flush as possible. Best practice would be to fill this seam so it is not visible. The screen used helmets did not have a join in this area due to a different construction method. II. ARMOR 1. Film-accurate or close approximation of complete armor set.made from ABS or fiberglass - The review committee will examine each costume in its entirety for accuracy, fit and overall aesthetic. Some armor sets are not acceptable as the design does not follow what was seen on screen. 2. Shoulder bridge covers spanning the gap between front and back armor should white cotton material. Nylon webbing is not acceptable- Side under arm chest/back straps should around 40mm (1 1/2") white cotton webbing ( off white if using off white pouches/drop box straps), but for trooping practicality, place elastic on the ends hidden by the armor. 3. Breastplate must include the rectangular medium grey (primer grey, Humbrol 64, or equivalent) strip on the lower right breast. 4. Bullet tank on the back plate must have film-accurate tank topper detail with a red painted line on the flat raised part of the large disc and small white disc painted on the tank topper itself, secured with single metal colored rivet in the center and proper pin striping and single rivet to hold the bottom of the tank. The back-plate and the tank must be two separate pieces. One piece back/tank combinations are not acceptable. - Tank toppers that are integrated as part of a unified vacuum therma-formed back plate/bullet tank assembly are not acceptable. - Tank Stripes: 1,4 and 6 ONLY... They were the only combinations seen on screen. - The red square next to the left side of the tank topper, as seen on the MotM scout exhibit, is not acceptable (the screen scouts did not have them). - Blinking lights or LED's on the bullet tank are not acceptable. 5. Bicep armor includes film-accurate "T-bit" detail and they are secured around the arm with a 50mm ( 2") black elastic strap. T-bit circle detail piece must face forward on each arm. 6. Forearm armor secured around the arm with a 25mm ( 1") black elastic strap. 7. Belt straps used for drop boxes should be made with a 40mm (1 1/2") white cotton webbing ( off white if using off white pouches/ side armour straps). Nylon webbing is not acceptable. 8. Thermal Detonator must include black detail pieces that approximate those seen in movie screen shots. There is a round knob, the same as on the tank topper on the right side, and a greeblies that comes from the Rebel Endor Trooper rank badge on the left, rectangles pointing up. - The TD box must be secured by one single black tie wrap, to the tubing as seen above. The TD box and tubing is then secured to the belt however a trooper wishes, the main belt is then closed/secured using a Velcro over lap much like a TK, with two black twin armed brackets holding each end of the tube to the belt (close to see whats on screen). With a 50mm (2") white nylon webbing as a belt secured to each end of the hard belt with a single silver rivet. Blinking lights or LED's on the belt canister box are not acceptable. 9. Grey belt canister tube, with 'concave' end caps secured on each end. - Thermal Detonator tube to be wire wrapped and not ribbed tube. Optional 10. Belt Ideally should be made from a one piece construction with no visible gaps, and not separated with fabric in between sections, apart from at the back where the TD box sits. Making any joins in a 3 part belt seamless, is highly recommended. 11. Knee armor has two elastic straps: * The upper strap is 15mm (5/8") wide and is riveted to the top sides of the knee armor. * The lower strap is 20mm (3/4") wide and passes through the lower sides of the knee armor. * Rivet remains silver in color. 12. Holster should be attached with 4 rivets silver in color, 1 in each corner, and must not have any rank striping visible 13. Shoulder armor should be secured around bicep with a 12mm ( 1/2") black elastic, similar to a TK. The bottom corners of the shoulder armor should be rounded and not have a sharp 'corner'. Zip Ties holding the shoulder bell to the shoulder bridge join are optional but recommended. III. SOFT ARMOR 1. A balaclava worn under the helmet and tucked into the collar of the under suit (no skin should show). Ribbed neck seals, as seen on Stormtroopers, is not acceptable. 2. A black vest with padded, ribbed biceps worn over the under suit, but under the torso armor, sleeves must not be too long/baggy, ideally just finishing just under the shoulder bell (approx 1/2"). It must have a 50mm (2") rear Velcro closure, which closes right over left and have a much wider neck opening than the flight suit, as seen on screen grabs. 3. Detailed cummerbund that includes: - Cummerbund should be made from a white heavy cotton (such as duck cloth), or similar heavily weaved fabric ( a slight sheen is allowed), with a rear 50mm (2") Velcro fastening right over left, sewn just around the edges. - Vertically ribbed straight stitch lines up the front of the cummerbund. The spacing between the stitches will vary slightly between costumers as their girth dictates. There should be 6 evenly-spaced vertical stitch lines giving 5 raised areas between the pouches. The raised areas of the stitches, referred to as ribs, MUST be completely visible between the pouches. - Two Part bund/cod with cod section not attached to the main bund. Optional but highly recommended - Two pouches made to a suitable scale for your size that are made from a white heavy weight cloth ( off white if using off white drop box/ side armor straps), they should be touching chest armor and slightly overlapping belt. No external stitching around the flaps or Velcro attachment should be seen. Bottom edge of the flap must be less than half the overall width of the pouch. Pouches must be have the appearance of being secured to the main bund. - Inverted arc stitched on the groin flap (not chevron), no external stitching on the edges. -50mm (2") black elastic thong joining cod to back of bund - Cod section must not have excessive bunching. 4. Detailed gloves with gauntlets that include: - Black suede patched atop the middle finger, index finger and the thumb. - Four (4) tightly spaced ribs that span across the knuckles. - Zippers and clips removed from the gauntlet. IV. UNDER SUIT 1. Based on a one piece flight suit or racing suit and including: - All visible zippers and pockets (except for primary zipper) removed. - Black real suede riding patch on the inside of the thighs and over the seat of the suit. - Two thigh straps made from 50mm (2") black elastic that are affixed underneath riding patch, must be fitted to your leg and not loose or drooping. - Mandarin style (or similar) collar that can be raised up to help conceal the neck and would preferably have an enclosing strap to keep the neck concealed. -Suit must not be too baggy/loose. -Real black suede square/ rectangular butt patch attached to flight suit at the rear under where cummerbund will sit and resemble those seen on screen, size will adjust slightly from scout to scout, but correct scale must be noted, no external visible stitching. V. BOOTS 1. Boots made using the "boot tutorial" (available on our Boot Forum) are the only boots accepted. 2. Film-accurate vertical and horizontal ribbing cut into the soles of the boots (heels and toes). 3. 25mm (1") Velcro closure along the back of the boot risers, closure facing inwards. 4. Plain soles only, must not be 2 toned. 5. White vinyl should be used to cover boots, slightly textured is acceptable, but not overly textured, and not too glossy in appearance. 6. Boots that constructed too wrinkled (i.e not stretched/fitted correctly prior to gluing) or poor in appearance will be refused. VI. BLASTER Level 1: 1. Flat or semi-gloss black. 2. Blaster does not have any visible trigger. 3. Blaster is lightly weathered. Level 2: 1. The scope has lens discs cut into the scope for a more realistic appearance. 2. No decals representing cross hairs or similar. 3. No drilled barrels. The screen used blaster did not have drilled barrels. VII. OPTIONAL 1. Weathering is completely optional and is not to exceed that which is seen on screen. Excessive weathering is NOT acceptable. 2. The following items are not required for the Lancer standard, but they help push your costume to hyper-accurate levels: - One piece black motorcycle racing suit (1970's era Esprit motorcycle racing suit). - Voice amplification system using a mic and amplified speaker-- could be all self contained within the helmet, or the speaker can be situated externally either under the breastplate or in one of the pouches. All mic cables must be hidden. - Screen-accurate Esprit motorcycle gloves. - Boots based on screen-accurate Sierra Sneakers hiking boots. If you do not think you are capable of modifying your costume to meet the above requirements-- for whatever reason-- or you do not agree with the high standards set above, you do not have to apply. * The review committee reserves the right to alter, edit or amend these requirements as necessary. No one can lose their Lancer status due to changes in the requirement list. (More pictures to be added soon). 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts