Pandatrooper Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 This is taken from my build thread here, but I thought this trick would be helpful for those sewing a new cummberbund / cod piece, or potentially for those wanting to modify their cummerbunds with an updated cod. http://forum.bikersc...topic=9781&st=0 I wanted to make sure that my cod didn't bunch up and result in "camel toe" syndrome, something that happens when the cod is sewn with the same batting as the cummerbund. I studied this photo very carefully, along with other close up photos of the cod. The top portion seems somewhat flexible, and the bottom always stays curved. The sewn arc stitches still have a "pillowy" look to them. Even when the Scouts sit on the speeder bikes, the top portion bends, but the bottom half holds it's shape. I was convinced that there was a curved form inside the bottom of the cod, almost like a cup in a jock strap. I tested sewing the cod using 1/4" closed cell foam, but the arc stitches on closed cell foam were too hard and didn't puff up right. I did a few more tests, and this is the result - no camel toe cod! First up, I measured out a cod piece that suited my dimensions. I know some state to make the cod 10" across at the top, but I tried a cardboard one and it was too wide (I have a 30" waist) so I reduced it to just under 9". Looking at reference pics, The "crotch" of the cod is actually quite narrow, and since the elastic is only 2" wide, I made the crotch 2.5" wide. I cut 2 pieces of material based on my cardboard pattern, one from 1/4" thick OPEN cell foam (the soft spongey kind) and 1/8" craft foam or "Fun Foam". I then cut and sewed my cod with 2 layers of the same material as the cummerbund. The trick to making "no invisible seam" on the edge of the cod (per Lancer spec) was to make the outer piece about 3/4" wider, and the inner piece 3/4" narrower. This will put the seam on the underside of the cod where no one will see it. This photo is the underside of the cod. Using a template, I drew the arc stitched "clam shell" shape onto a separate piece of scrap foam. This template will be used to create the clam shell shape of the plastic insert. The top of the arc lines are at about the halfway mark along the length of the cod. I cut the bottom 1/2" of this template to leave room to sew the 2" crotch elastic. The plastic insert is also 3/16" narrower than the fun foam and open cell foam. This way, the foam extends past the sides of the plastic. I transferred the clam shell shape onto a piece of 1/8" thick styrene. I then heated the styrene with a heat gun and curved it over a section of 4" diameter pipe. I purposely bent the lower half and kept the top half less curved, transitioning to a flat top. This plastic insert will prevent the camel toe effect of the cod. This is how all the materials will be sandwiched inside the cod material. 1/8" Fun Foam on the bottom (adds rigidity), plastic "clam shell" insert, and then the 1/4" open cell foam on top. I used hot glue to glue the plastic insert to the Fun Foam. Make sure to leave 1/2" exposed foam at the bottom for the elastic to be sewn on. I then used spray adhesive on both the bottom of the open cell and the top of the fun foam and clam shell insert, let it tack up, and pressed them together. Insert the entire cod stuffing into the cod material. Make sure you have the cod material right side up (wider piece of fabric is the outer cod, narrower piece is the inner). Also make sure the inner seam allowance from sewing the cod material is under the entire cod stuffing, otherwise you might see the raised edges under the outer fabric. Iron the cod material seams inside out if you need to. Pull the cod stuffing all the way down into the outer cod material. Make sure it's as far as it can go, so that the edges look puffy. Work the material so that you can't see the seams. Sew the 2" crotch elastic down, make sure the fold the end over first. Using the clamshell template I made earlier, I transferred the shape to the back of the cod and traced the arc line in pencil on the fabric. Draw a second line about 1/2" above the clam shell (I used a dinner plate to get a slightly larger radius). Pull the fabric tight, and sew the arc lines. If you want to be anal, don't sew the arc lines over the edges of the cod. The clam shell plastic insert now keeps the cod in a perfectly curved shape, preventing any camel toe from happening. I sewed the top shut by overlapping the fabric, and a seam about 2" below the top to keep the foam tight and flat. This won't be seen as it's covered by the belt armor. I then attached the cod to the bund. Finished cod / bund on my mannequin. I know there's no under suit shown here but I did a test fitting with the under suit and there's no camel toe, even when sitting. Hope this is helpful! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4505Marcel Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 Good idea, but surely that plastic insert is going to dig into your crotch when walking or kneeling??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pandatrooper Posted September 11, 2012 Author Share Posted September 11, 2012 It doesn't dig in actually. The foam is slightly wider than the plastic insert by just a little bit, 3/16" on each side. So the foam is up against your thighs. I tried running around, crouching, etc. and it doesn't dig in. I'm sure it's not as soft as just foam or batting, but it's way more comfortable than a TK codpiece by far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonewolf Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 Looks great Terry, I am using foam matting, without the plastic, seems to work well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chex Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 Very nice, Terry. Thanks for posting this for current and future scouts to look at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimei Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 i have a plastic insert as well...backed with the same stiffening material they use for shirt collars. i did experience some rubbing on my thighs...so i simply narrowed the plastic...and everything is fine. i like the idea of the fun foam stuff...may try that when i make my new bund Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TB-7076 Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Hmm, much hassle around something I simply achieved with fitting the pattern to my frame. Key is that the bottom stops in front of the crotch ans not underneath. Sorry for the bummer bot not meant offensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pandatrooper Posted September 12, 2012 Author Share Posted September 12, 2012 No offense taken, we all have different ways of doing things. Pick what tips work for you and use them or change them. That's the beauty of our hobby! Agreed, the strap ends at the crotch and not underneath. On this mannequin, everything is "skin tight". On top of the undersuit, everything fits me just fine. Will post pics when completed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shdwtrpr13 Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 ahh ok now I see it. It took me some time looking over the pictures to get what you guys were saying about just under the crotch. I do have one question....how is it attatched to the bund? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaltblutfreak Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Popper and/or velcro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dart Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Looks good! How does it handle a wash? That'd be my only concern with the construction method. Please let us know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southscout Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 This tutorial was so fun, I did it twice! One cod piece for my new shiny bund, and one that I will put on my existing MP-bund. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pandatrooper Posted January 11, 2013 Author Share Posted January 11, 2013 Turned out great Patrik! Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.