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Excellent work! Keep it up!

Will do!! So far compared to doing my TK this looks a lot easer….until weathering….that one worries me!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking forward to seeing your progress! Let us know if you have any questions along the way. We’re always happy to help!

Got my kit from Walt’s today. It’s go time. Working on the helmet first. I’m gonna have a buddy who paints cars paint it for me. Figured this will be the hardest part to complete outside the jacket.

Okay, now onto helmet visor/face plate assembly. Might be a TLDR kind of post. After reading some other WIB posts about their helmet building, it dawned on me that we can't rely on the armor maker to put the divots in their parts that will line up perfectly, so you know exactly where to cut, where to drill, where to glue. It is a "hold in place" take a look, adjust, look again and do it all over again untill you are satisfied. This WIB is intended for you Studio Creations owners. Since I can't speak to other armor makers, whether some of my findings apply to other makers = YMMV (your mileage may vary) After this dried and I my case painted, I started fitting the face plate and visor. Since these two parts are separate, yet integrated, I looked at how they would work together attached to the now assembled top/back assembly. Looking closely at the side of the visor, you can clearly see where the pivot caps bolts will go. Since this is both a feature and highly visible detail, I started here. Using my trusty leather hole punch (or drill if thats what you have), I put a 1/8" hole to start. Knowing I will eventually make it larger but smaller is better for finding the middle of the next holes. Holding the face plate and the visor together, I was able to see that they did not complement one another and that I may have to do some trimming especially on the right side. Since the visor was the outer part and most visble, I started with that next. Remember, it has been said here many times. "It is easier to remove plastic than it is to put it back" or in my book, "measure once, twice, three times before making any cuts" I didn't take any photos of what I did next because I like to think, if you gone this far, you kind of know what you are doing and just need some guidance not a step by step DIY. Looking on the sides of the assembled back/top, there were some divots where it looks like the visor pivot bolts would go. But when holding the visor where the 1/8" hole I punched lined up, held in place with some blue masking tape, it didn't seem right to me how the side of the visor lined up with the edge just in front of the ears. So feel free to move the visor forward, backwards, up and down until you think it looks right to you. Double check the clearance of where the visor curve swings over the top cap. Use the reference pics for guidance but also take into considerantion this SC helmet wasn't cast from orignal molds, so what you have in front of you will be somewhat different. Once satisfied with the visor placement, using those two side visor holes, I made some pencil marks on where the pivot bolt hole would go. I punched a smaller 1/16" (or drill) now you are committed but not the end of the world should you have to make a different hole. Using a thick paper clip, I stuck them into both visor pivot holes and checled for clearance when swinging the visor up/over. Mine looked good and with nothing hitting, the next step was to introduce the face plate to the party. Since the back cap and visor aren't changing shape or being cut at this point, think of the next step as making the face plate fit the visor and back cap, not the other way around. Holding he faceplate to the back cap and top assembly without the visor, you can see where the 1/16" back cap holes lines up with the face plate. If you use the divots on the faceplate, how does it sit? On my SC helmet, I would have to trim the edge that lines up with the back side of the visor. This can be seen in the pic above how much might have to be trimmed. Once you are satisfied with the face plate placement, tape the visor and face plate together and fit them to the helmet. You know that the visor and helmet lined up, so you now you can mark the face plate from the side of the visor holes and make the 1/16" hole on the face plate as well. Now put all three parts together and use those paper clips for a test run. There will be some binding and rubbing from the face plate since you already know it doesn't line up correctly. With all three in place, since I am using the 3M type visor bolts (the SC provided metal ones are similar just without a couple of steps for the 3M ones) I did the following. Cut out the visor side holes to 9/16" (some folks here said 1/2" but that didn't fit that initial round step in the 3M bolts) remember to go slow and honestly, I did it by hand using a step drill bit. Now use the visor as a template, making sure you line up the holes you made. You can mark what you need to trim on the edge of the face plate. Before I cut, I cut out a 1/2" square in the face plate to fit the second step on those 3M bolts. That took a bit more work, a combination of drilling the corners and cutting out the square using a X-acto knife and some small jeweler's files. Once the square hole was put in for the round peg 👌, I locked the face plate to the visor using the bolts and washers. Now its time to double how the face plate and visor sides line up. If it still looks good, then hold the face/visor assembly up to the helmet assembly. If still looking good on the sides and the height, make sure to line everything up and mark where the holes will go on the side of the back cap. Time to trim the face plate. Fortunately I only had to trim on the right side (first picture on top) and sand a little bit on the left. Next step was to drill the 1/4" hole marked on the side of the back cap and assemble the face plate and visor. Check your work, fitment, excessive wonkiness, etc. If there is any additional trimming now would be the time because the next step was gluing the face plate to the visor. I checked where the face plate and visor would meet and for the SC it was around the the pivot "fllaps' were. So added some E-6000 to this area, put the pivot bolt in (this where having a square hole helped line things up) thighten the bolts set my clamps and magnets. While waiting for the E-6000 to dry on the face plate and visor, my next post will assembly. Until then Toybiz out...🫡

For the mando scout, yes, it's the tie fighter suit.

Nice I just ordered a studio creations armor set! I can’t wait to get it all together and weather it up! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My Kit so Far Helmet: KPROP Armor: Studio Creations Gloves: Wampa Wear Cumbersome: KPROP Boots: crow Props flight Suit: looking at Wampa Wear Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am starting my build!!! I have the Custom Creations Kit and the KPROP Helmet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To confirm the Wampa Wear Black Flight suit is the Tie Fighter Flight Suit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Next up, the squad leader belt! How do people attach the fabric belt that holds the boxes to the plastic back part of the belt? I'm also trying to find where to add button snaps that'll connect to the abdomen armor. Thanks!

Sounds great, I'll plan on trying to put the UV resin on top of the paint in the areas that need attention, sanding, and then painting over again. Hopefully that works. And yeah I've seen his videos, that's actually who I purchased the files from. Helpful tips, thanks!

You put the uv resin on and then either use a uv light to harden it or take it outside. Uv rays from the sun do the trick. But be careful with leaving it out depending on the filament used. It could melt. Mixing acetone and bondo just thins out the bondo. If you watch galactic armory videos you can see that it's a method they use. The goal is really smoothing out the area so there are no lines. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

Thanks for taking a look. Yeah I've been using the orange Bondo by itself and then sanding it. I just thought I could get away with the filler primer in that area, turns out not haha! What's the purpose for mixing bondo with acetone? Also with that UV resin stuff could I just put that over the top of it to fill in the lines or am I going to need to sand it down? Thanks.

Yeah dude you got some pretty significant print lines going on. There are lots of ways to smooth them. I've mixed acetone and the orange bondo and painted it onto areas. I've used uv resin on areas, I've used plastidip. I've used a combination of all of them. You want your kit to look great all around if your kit is on point and you've got a gun that has a whole bunch of print lines people are going to notice. Just be careful to smooth out the print lines but not destroy the detail in the different details on your blaster. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

The photo should be available at that link I attached, here's it again. https://photos.app.goo.gl/LBWRwncUUsq1QP8K7

Ideally, you want to make it as smooth as you can. Send a pic so we can see what it looks like. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

Hey all, I'm starting a Kashyyyk trooper build and have the DC15S mostly done. I've used some filler primer and painted over that, however you can still see some of the 3d print lines on the side of the chamber. I know it's up to the GML to approve the final thing but I'd appreciate some insight on what others have approved. It looks like there's some lines visible on the CRL reference photo as well. Thanks. Photos here

Except for the assembling the back cap and top, most of this next section is purely OPTIONAL. I ridden motorcycles for many years and the inside of the helmets are usually medium/dark gray or black. Because of this I painted the inside of my ESB TK helmet BLACK as well. I know it's more work but I like the end results. To me it makes the helmets look more "military". With that said, the time to paint the inside is BEFORE it's all assembled. So the first step was to combine the top and rear helmet sections. Whether you are painting the insides like I did or not, it is the first step. With the SC helmet the two pieces come pre-trimmed and when fitting them, they appear to line up fairly well. I would say about 90%. If you choose to, I recommend to polish up with fine sandpaper, all the exposed edges of both parts before gluing them together. I did scuff up the mating surfaces with 100 grit sandpaper where the glue, in my case E-6000, would meet. This was along the rear lower ledge of the top and the upper recessed channel of the back cap the two pieces meet. I chose to use E-6000 because that was my go-to when building my TK. Strong, flexible and forgiving if you have to take anything apart. Rare earth magnets and some ratchet clamps held things together overnight. What next? Here's that part of the journey of masking, masking, and guess what? More masking. Followed by cleaning and double checking the masking - then painting. Remember when painting, best results are from prepping prepping and prepping. 👆🏿 I got myself some 1/8" wide masking tape to outline the shape of the snout. As one of the features our fans see first, having a smooth blacked out snout is important. I taped and removed the thin masking tape about 4 times before I was satisfied. This isn't an RS helmet so there are some imperfections along the snout "ridge", so just do your best that you can. Better to change your mind with masking than to remove paint later. I used Krylon Fusion Satin Black for Plastics spray paint. It's not as glossy in person as it does in pictures, so it should be good. 👆🏿 Got some old newspaper and wrapped the rest of the exposed areas to prevent any overspray. You will get some no matter what. I used some plastic polish and any overspray, pencil marks, scuffs, etc - all came right off with a little bit of elbow grease. Took some masking tape and visually found the center of the forehead and without peeling all three decals separately, I just peeled them back about halfway and lightly tapped them into place, stood back and checked for center/level. Removed them, recentered them (three times) and when I was happy, I simply rolled back the paper while pressing out any air bubbles and all three decals stuck in a straight line just like they were on the cut sheet. 👉 My next post will be assembly. I KNOW all fan made helmets are slightly wonky. They are not symetrical and nor were the ones used in the films. I have a Hasbro Black Series if I want to look at an idealized version of the Biker helmet. So take a breather and just find some peace to do your best, just get as close to the reference images as you can and you should be good to go. You have literally over 100 years of combined experience here on Pathfinders to give you a hand so don't worry. Assemblying the face plate and visor will be shared on my next post. Until then Toybiz out...🫡

Hope we all were able to take a moment out of our day to Honor those who paid the ultimate sacrifice for our freedoms that we get to enjoy. Okay, with the extra time off, I wanted to post some progress on the bucket. Previously I asked about the Studio Creations "red line" for the lens opening and Chopper advised I can go higher. So I did. I also widened the opening ever so slightly so the shape of the lens opening was more of a goggle than being like an upside down Sonic the Hedgehog.🙃 (now that you know, can you "unsee it"?) 👇 Here's the "rough cut" up to the red line. 👇 Here the lens cuts has been sanded and smoothed out. Studio Creations face plate is fairly thick without any thin spots from stretching. So, I used a 180 grit sanding sponge with good results. I know it's difficult to see from this angle but the droop of the lens opening was kind of pointed, so was rounded a bit more and that slight flange under the snout was trimmed up as well. 👇 Now onto the "ears", I free handed the shape and compared it to the reference pics and went for it. The ABS in this area is paper thin, so it doesn't take much to cut through it. I just drilled a couple of starting holes and used a Lexan scissor to get the basic shape. Cleaned up some of the cuts with a small X-acto knife. I would highly advise limiting the use of power tools with the ears. Here are the initial "rough cuts" - followed by the sand and smooth by wrapping a plastic pen with 800 grit sandpaper to get the round shape on the corners. To keep things, separate, I'll post my next steps in the following post.

thanks for the advice! I'll check out Mr. Paul Mark

If I remember correctly there should be a file for just one link that you would print as many times as needed and feed over a web strap to give them structure. Honestly I'd just buy some real straps from Mr. Paul

Hi! I'm currently printing greaves for my shoretrooper, using Sean Field 3D files. I can't find the flexible, wide top strap anywhere in the file package. I've searched the forum and haven't found anyone reference this issue. Anyone have a link to a file for this part, or ideas on how to model one up from scratch? (I use solidworks, so this could be straightforward if I had the dimensions). thanks! Mark

More updates Just have to put it on.. still have weathering to finish. First wash on and removed. Will add more wash. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice! His straps are real nice. My zipper is velcro’d to the inside part of the ab. You could glue it, but it’s not necessary IMO. If ya scroll up, you can see how my zipper is attached to the ab. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk