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Small circular velcro tabs are an easier option, if you are having issues with keeping the front visor closed:

The chin cup is optional and not required for approval, so if you are not pleased with the aesthetics, you can completely remove the strap and chin cup. If you’re looking for a way to keep the chin cup, but prevent the strap that runs along the side of the dome from being exposed when you move your head, consider adding magnets to the problem side to hold the visor in place. That should keep it from moving when you lean forward or turn your head.

I'm sorry. My English is not very good. I mean I tightened the screws on the helmet because the front part was easily opening when I moved my head. After tightening the screws, when I move my head, the helmet still opens a little and the black elastic band of the chin strap is visible. I know it appears in the movies but aesthetically I don't like it very much. My question is. Can I replace the black elastic band with a white elastic band? Or if the black elastic band is visible a little, it’s considered an external element and therefore it isn’t allowed to use white elastic band. I don't know if it’s a little difficult to understand.

I'm not totally sure what you mean, but if it can't be seen then that's a personal preference.

I have put wing nuts inside the helmet to adjust the visor as it would easily open when I moved my head. I have tightened the wing nuts hard and when I move my head you can still see a bit of the black rubber. I know I talked about it the other day and you showed me the link to the film frames and you told me that some helmets were like that but I don't really like it as most of my colleagues can't see them and I don't think it's pretty. The question is, could I put white elastic tape as it is a part of the helmet that can't be seen? If it's not allowed I would understand.

I can tell you is that on my own ROTJ scout boots, the velcro is 1", but the stitching that shows on the outside is about 20mm. I don't know how many GMLs are going to ask you to put a ruler on the boot velcro for basic clearance, but I'd check with them if you're unsure.

Hi @Chopper, any feedback on this? Or should I reach out to my local GML?

You might be able to get the velcro moved over to give you a bit more room. Otherwise, you will need a new bund.

I would like to emphasize the velcro on the cummerbund that sticks out. In addition to the velcro sticking out, it’s quite tight, making it almost impossible for me to breathe. The question I would like you to clarify for me is when a part of the suit is too small, in this case the cummerbund, is there a possibility that the seamstress can fix it in some way? Or does a new cummerbund have to be made?

Hi guys, As a GML here, I think the patches with rounded edges look much better but taking into account the modifications that Nes is having to make to the suit, it seems OK to postpone them

I've tried to re-upload the last photo but I don't know what I've done, sorry. Is there a solution for the velcro that’s visible on the cummerbund?

The lower edge of the butt flap should approximately be at the green line.

Ok. Do you mean I should tell the seamstress to cut the lapel up to the green line?

Eyeballing it, but I'd put the flap at about here, in green. For basic clearance, I'd hold off on surgery on the front riding patches, depending on GML preference.

Redid the tank support following @Chopper ’s How to make Armor wearable guide. The tank is extremely secure, but easily removable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi! I have the same problem with Endor's Finders gloves. I can't remember if I ask them or someone else and the reply was that is was normal for the black thread to "bleed" and get those stains...please post what they reply back this time. In relation with the jacket, I remember @wensparrow88 managed to made it herself, but not sure if she takes commisions but may be of help: See the thread here:

Boot holster, blouser and rivets (with ABS supports) installed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For the leg flare you noted: Add some 3/4” strapping to your flight suit across the opening of your foot to create a stirrup under the arch of your foot. That way the legs of the flight suit are pulled taunt when you put them on and they won’t ride up when you put on the boots. The butt flap should be shortened, but wait for @Chopper to tell you how much. Also, Chopper, what are your thoughts on the front patches? The front patches have hard corners, and I know GMLs tend to look for more rounded corners to match the CRL images. Not sure if it’s an issue for basic though.

Template is in this post:

Can you see the two bars from the side view? If so, then yes, probably. Ask your GML. There is a template for the dogbone on here. Let me find it and I'll post the link.

I ordered Palladium Pampa Hi Sneakers as the base for my DIY boots. Is it obligatory for the normal approval (not Lancer) to remove the two bars you mentioned? And does a template for the dogbone exist? How thick is this piece in the middle?

Ok. In this photo you can see the velcro on the cummerbund. Is there a solution? or would I have to make a new cummerbund? At the bottom left, I see some excess. Can I fix this by pulling the flightsuit down to stretch them? Is there any excess on the butt flap?

I do not recommend trying to cut or modify the Keep Trooping boots. Doing so will likely ruin them. Pull your knee armor up about 1 inch/25mm.

Ok. I also noticed that the boots are a little high and touch the knee pad. How much more or less could I cut so that I have a space between the knee pad and the end of the boot?

Just a quick observation. These little lips (green arrow) can be removed, taken down to where the yellow arrow is pointing. I’m sorry I didn’t catch it on your previous post with the biceps. Hope this helps. Mike